Living in a rural village in
Tonga is not much different from living on a farm. Not an hour, let alone a
day, goes by that I don’t see a pig or a chicken just a few feet away from me.
I average a cow a day and a horse a week. Dogs, by far the least domesticated
of the group, come to my house almost non-stop, begging for scraps or
scavenging through my trash. At night, I am serenaded by the lovely sounds of
pigs scratching themselves against my house, roosters cackling, and dogs
barking. It is a far cry from the sounds I was use to in the first 23 years of
my life.
All these animals and the symbiotic
farm/village relationship, meanwhile, mean that the Tongan kids grow up very
comfortable with these animals. They have no fear of them, and hardly seem to
even notice the animals. I have seen 4-year-old kids chase away pigs that were
at least 3 times their size and 5 times their weight with only a shout. From a
young age, the children are accustomed to these “domestic” animals.
This lack of fear can lead to
some interesting moments at school. The first incident occurred a few months
ago and actually does not involve a farm animal. Tonga, as an island created
from coral growth, has very few interesting land animals. The only animal that
might peak anyone’s interests is the flying fox, a very large bat that is
always evident at night. One day at school, my students were playing around and
found a baby bat sleeping in a tree on the school grounds. Rather than turn
away, they broke off the stick it was sleeping on and started carrying it
everywhere they went. They took the bat to the classroom. It went to the
bathroom. It was part of the recess break. They even walked with the bat during
lunch when they returned to their homes. The entire time they were doing all of
this, they would pet the bat and pretend to kiss it, playfully asking if I
wanted to give it a kiss as well. I respectfully declined.
A few weeks later, a cow
accidentally wandered onto the school grounds. This happens every few weeks as the
students often forget to close the school fence and the cows are not fenced in.
The cows don’t cause any harm, but the problem is as there is only one opening
in the fence, the cows are rarely able to find their own way out. When the kids
see the cows, their eyes gleam with delight. As one, my class 6 shouts in a
mixture of Tongan and the little English they know, if they can go and take
care of it. While I know it may not be the greatest experience for the cow, I
shout yes and in a flash the kids are running at the cow, shepherding it off
the school grounds. Showing far less organization than a group of sheep dogs,
the kids blindly chase the cow until they are lucky enough to force it out.
Though I have experienced this momentary excitement several times so far, I
have yet to get tired of it. It is truly a sight to behold.
My last animal anecdote
occurred just last week. On Monday, the kids brought a live chicken to school
as a gift to the teachers. The idea was for the teachers to kill it and eat it
for lunch. I asked my counterpart Paea how you kill a chicken, assuming some
quick and humane answer like slitting its throat or breaking its neck. Instead,
Paea told me you grab something heavy, close your eyes, and then proceeded to
mime the action of bludgeoning a chicken to death for me. I do not think he was
joking.
Alas, the chicken remained
alive, as we had no pot to cook it in. The plan was to eat it the next day. I
walked into school on Tuesday expecting to see the same chicken, but there was
a new one in its place. I asked the kids what happened, and they explained to
me as if it was the simplest thing in the world that the chicken was gone and
this was a new one. A few minutes later my teachers arrived at school, saw the
chicken, and realized they forgot to bring the pot again. Thus, the chicken was
momentarily spared, the children were able to play with it all day, and I never
saw that particular bird again.
In other news, Tonga has
recently made the news - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-23469223.
I thought some of you might be interested in reading the article. The article
discusses Tonga’s growing relationship with China, a subject I touched upon
several posts ago. It also shows that no matter where you are in the world,
even in a remote island in the South Pacific, you can never truly leave world
politics behind.
As always, thanks again for
reading. Tomorrow, I am leaving to spend the weekend with a few volunteers on
the nearby island of ‘Ofu, which should make for some interesting reading
material next week and some beautiful pictures.
Volunteer Picture of when we went snorkeling last month
The end of the day with the whole snorkeling group - volunteers, friends, and families
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