Christmas in August

Tonga receives. As a country that is what they do. The vast majority of Tongan’s economy – I believe around 90% - comes from foreign aid and remittances. I could debate the pros and cons of Tonga surviving as a welfare state all day, but this post will be a little more focused than that and definitely less serious. In addition to these many gifts, Vava’u receives numerous generous contributions from the people traveling through the island on their yachts.

Last Friday one such contribution was made to my school. I had received warning that the employees of a yacht, the owner was still in the US, called The Patriot were coming to my school to donate much needed school materials. The kids were incredibly excited and we spent several days preparing a thank you program, filled with songs, dances, and vegetables for our guests. On the actual day they came, the kids’ energy was palpable. I had told them that the school would be receiving a trampoline and they reacted as if it was the greatest thing they had ever heard before. When several cars of the people arrived, the first carrying the poles and net for the trampoline, I could barely hear myself think over the deafening volume of my kids’ cheers.

After introducing myself to our guests, they began to set up the trampoline while the kids watched them completely mesmerized. Barely able to tear a few of the older boys away, I had them help me carry the supplies to one of the classrooms and prepare the pizza boxes for later. Once the trampoline was all set up, I, as I was asked too by my teachers, introduced the school and commenced the thank you program. The program was light and unspectacular – I must admit that my kids for all their strengths are not particularly strong singers and dancers as compared to the other schools’ students – but the visitors seemed to appreciate the effort. All of the classes sang, while the older boys demonstrated a war dance and the girls danced the traditional women’s dance, the tau’olunga. At the end of program, the students trotted out an impressive collection of carrots, coconuts, oranges, pineapples, cucumbers, lettuce, and papaya to offer up as presents.

Then came the pizza. In addition to bringing the trampoline, new soccer, volleyball, basketball, and rugby balls, and a ton of school materials like paper, pens, pencils, and finger paint, the guests also ordered pizza from a restaurant in town, Aquarium, for the whole school. Surprised by this development, as I did not warn them about the pizza, the kids were almost as eager to eat as they were to jump on the trampoline. Many of them had never eaten pizza before, and I could almost guarantee that this was the first time most of them had ever eaten food from any of the restaurants in town. After lining up the kids by class, they came up to collect their pizza with radiantly beaming smiles and devoured their slices in minutes. Every single student, loving the pizza, confidently expressed to me that it was delicious.

With lunch over, the real fun began. The kids started lining up to use the trampoline, while the rest of us played soccer and rugby. It was absolutely a free for all but the kids loved it, and I could tell how happy the people were to see the Tongan children enjoying their presents so much. A week later the kids are still completely enthralled by the trampoline, constantly asking me if they can use it – for some reason the other teachers have apparently designated me as the boss of the trampoline – and the school and I are incredibly appreciative of the generous donations given to us.

Now, on other note as I still seem to have your only somewhat divided attention, the next day I was invited to go fishing with two other Peace Corps Volunteers. Leaving from the wharf, we cruised to the backside of the island, which is stunningly beautiful as the entire North side of island is dominated by cliffs and the open ocean. On this day we were trolling, meaning the boat was constantly in motion and we kept our lines trailing behind us. Not the most successful of outings as we managed to catch only three fish, 1 rainbow runner and 2 skipper jacks, the runner did make for some exceptional eating later than night.

The fishing was incredibly fun and the weather was absolutely gorgeous on that day. We spent hours cruising around, talking, and waiting for fish that, alas, never seemed to bite. The day would have been terrific if only for the fishing, but I mention this occasion now not so much for what we caught but what we saw. The first sighting was a sailfish, which looks exactly like a marlin, but I am told by people more knowledgeable than I that it is in fact a different fish. Apparently a rare site to behold, the sailfish jumped twice out of the water only 30 yards away from us, gracefully flying through the air and splashing softly back into the water.

But wait, there’s more. When we first left land, our host assured us that we would probably see humpback whales. This is currently peak whale season in Vava’u, as the whales leave the now frozen Antarctic to mate and birth their calves in the tropical waters of Tonga. Unbelievably excited by this prospect, I constantly kept my gaze on the horizon for a site of these gentle behemoths. At first, we saw only teases. We could see sprays of water in the far distance, but that was it. No tails. No jumps. No backs. Just water and air, and all very far away.

On our return to the wharf at the end of our day, quite happy overall but certainly disappointed not to see whales, it happened. Only a football field or so away from the boat, a pod of whales emerged from the water. Majestically gliding through the ocean, I saw their backs as they came up for air and their larger than believable tails dart through the wind. I saw a whale playfully slap the water with its fins and one completely jump out of the water, though from a far greater distance. Though I couldn’t see their whole bodies and I failed to capture a worthwhile photo, the whales were absolutely one of the greatest things I have ever seen. Their awe- inspiring size, the effortlessness of which they glide through the water, and their stunning gentleness to the point of meekness was a wonder to behold. Already signed up, seeing these beautiful creatures only made me more excited for when I will have a chance to actually get in the water and swim with them in less than a month. Until then, I have this happy memory to sustain me.

As always, thank you for reading. I hope everyone has a great Labor Day weekend.